Maruia Springs, the thermal oasis.

As I sit here in the egg chair in the guest lounge I keep thinking how lucky I am to be able to switch off. Of course I am typing this on technology however my phone is out of reception and I have just spent the past few hours soaking, eating and drawing.

For me I have always struggled to switch off, perhaps this is the true gift of Maruia, the inability to connect except to those in front of you.

I have always loved real hot springs, I classify thermal springs as those with a natural base, preferably a Sulphur, rather than chlorinated. I search high and low for a good soak and I rate Japans onsens as my favourite in the world. Maruia is a close second.

Situated in the "middle of nowhere", its hiding hole of the Lewis Pass deters the yuppies and appears to bring the true soakers. With Hamner Springs being a mere hour away it seems to only draw a crowd willing to make the drive to bliss and sacrificing no service, no outside amenities and an all inclusive resort. It's expensive but I think it's worth it.

You have two options at Maruia, a day destination and soak or stay, if you have the time and money, stay!

The first time I visited Maruia it was a wild day in the pass. Grey clouds threatened to dump rain and I remember trying to find the bloody turn off not knowing what I was looking for. Arriving we were befuddled and confused but immediately I was delighted by the simplicity and acknowledgment of the natural beauty of this place. Tucked into the valley the whole place could be missed by blinking as you drive past.

The main building looks over the resort and the pools with gardens and outside paths connecting all buildings. Everything is designed to blend in to its environment rather than become an eyesore. The pools are the lowest point of the resort and look out onto the river and mountains opposite. It snows here and the outside pools can be covered while you soak in 40°, it really is a magical place. We spent the afternoon soaking and enjoying the simple beauty.

The pools have natural back algae which has "healing properties" and is apparently able to be eaten, call me fussy but I won't eat tub algae. The black algae is the same that can be found in true Japanese onsens and the "egg"/Sulphur smell for me verifies the validity of the true thermal spring. There are 3 outside pools ranging from 37° to 42° and also have two saunas, a plunge pool and outside showers. There is a large internal pool that sits at 42° with onsen bathing options and massage chairs in the building next to the pools.

The second time I visited we stayed in the hotel rooms. All I can say is wow. 24/7 access to the pools, yoga, sauna rituals and the whole relax vibe really inundates your body and demands you to succumb to the bliss. The rooms are quiet and simplistic, you're meant to enjoy and sleep well, you're meant to heal. I enjoyed the large range of herbal teas left for us.

We're currently camping, I would argue this has meant we have decided to also buy meals here as the camping facilities are what I would call "sparse". If you're camping in a motor home this would be fine but a tent won't cut it. There is no shelter for cooking so Beck and I have decided to buy the platters and drink the wine, neither of us are mad at this.

On top of the whole, be one with nature vibe, Maruia is big on the holistic preparation of food. The chefs appear committed to local produce, home cooking, pickling and preparing and embracing the natural cuisine. The price tag on these meals are hefty but if you enjoy food that's really been considered and thought about it's well worth the cost.

One thing I always love about Maruia is the smell, in the buildings there is either a pine or cedar smell or there is a non invasive essential oil diffusing. Even the Sulphur odor is oddly inviting from the pools. There is humidity and warmth in this place.

Even if it's only for a short time this place makes me feel whole, it heals parts of me that hurt and it makes me feel human again.