Getting lost in the ranges

Visiting New Zealand's tallest peak.

Over the past few years I have traveled to Aoraki several times. While most of my visits have been in winter, I have now just recently completed 2 summer visits. The beauty of Aoraki is that one visit is never enough, there will always be something new to draw you back.

We first visited Mt Cook in 2017 after unprecedented rains hit the Canterbury and Otago region. Days earlier the majority of the Canterbury region had been declared a natural disaster and many roads were closed due to flooding. While this was terrible for New Zealand’s already dodgy roads and travelling around the country became increasingly difficult with road closures, it was a blessing for those praying for a stellar ski season.

Pictured here is me in 40cm’ish deep snow at the Mt Cook Village base. The snow was so thick they closed the Hooker Valley campsite and chains had to be used to get to the higher bits of the village. I think this was the best introduction to Mt Cook. We had a bluebird day and the peak was incredibly clear. (It's the peak just jutting out before the sun glare.)

I remember first sighting Mt Cook from the edge of Lake Pukaki and pointing the peak out to Dave. He told me I was full of it and that it wasn’t it (spoiler alert, it was.) I then told him Mt Cook was 3,724m tall, he again told me I was full of it (I wasn’t). It’s pretty astounding that the peak is so prominent from 70 or so kilometres away, the lake leading towards the peaks that frame it. The range of mountains that are in the area hold 19 out of 20 of New Zealand’s peaks over 3000m, while Mt Cook is impressive it is flanked by equally as steep terrain and some of the most unique ridge lines on this side of the hemisphere.

To get to the area you turn down the Aoraki road off the state highway. The road follows the lake till you get to the foot of the mountains then snakes through the creeks that feed the lake. Lake Pukaki is brilliant blue, it is hard to describe how stunning it is as it is a glacier fed lake, you really must see it to understand. There are lots of photo opportunities along the road, take them! Be careful of bad drivers, blind corners and other tourists who don’t understand that roads are for driving not posing for photos (yes there is hypocrisy in me stating this, I am aware).

There are two glaciers that are on either side of Mt Cook. The Hooker Valley Glacier, 11km long, and the Tasman Glacier, 25km long.

The Hooker Valley is only accessible by a walking track about 2km from the village. The walk itself is about 11km long and will take you about 3 hours. Both times I have completed it I have taken about 2 and a half hours. It’s what I would consider an easy tramp, you only have about 80m in elevation and like most walking tracks in New Zealand is very well maintained. One word of warning don’t walk when it’s windy, there is no shelter on the track and you will be miserable.

In winter the track is incredible. Make sure you follow general alpine walking rules, take warm and protective clothing in case a storm comes in, the weather changes quickly in this region as the range creates its own weather patterns. There are three suspension bridges on the track. We walked the track last year after another bout of heavy rainfall. This caused the second bridge and part of the track to wash away. As you cross the large gash made by the river you can look back and see where the track fell almost 50m into the lake. In winter every peak will be covered in snow and a lot of people watch for avalanches that occur in the afternoon. If you’re lucky you will see one, they’re spectacular as they fall and crash down the hillsides. The track finishes in the lake that is edged by the Hooker glacier. In winter giant ice chunks, broken from the glacier float around the lake.

If you are walking in summer WEAR SUNSCREEN and a hat. Saw a lot of very burnt people this time around and the track gets very hot as there are no trees for shelter. The low shrub line makes for spectacular views in summer. No one except for crazy people get in the water at the Hooker Lake (so as you can see below I got in). There is a reason ice is still floating around, it's bloody cold. The ice is crystal clear if you pull it out which is amazing to look at. I made mum get in this time, as you can tell she was thrilled.

Don't expect the lake to be clear, despite Lake Pukaki's clear blue colour, the Hooker Lake is grey and murky from the land slides that have clouded the glacier then subsequently melt into the lake. I found I was disappointed the first time I visited however since I expected it the second time, it wasn't a shock. Both lakes on the track are this murky colour however the rivers are still crystal clear. If it's been raining make sure you keep an eye out to the side for waterfalls appearing down the side. There is also thar in the valley often grazing down the edges of rocky outcliffs.

If you don't turn off to the Hooker Valley car park you follow the road into the village. Make sure you check out the visitor center. It has the most beautiful view of the mountain through the windows. The visitor center is filled with amazing information about the mountain, the explorers, local flora and fauna and cultural history. There is 2 levels and it is genuinely fascinating. The architecture is really interesting too, if a little busy.

If your feeling some food or a snack there is very little around but the heritage hotel has the best views of the mountain and do a pretty good hot chocolate. If you are incredibly lucky you may have Kea come down to visit you however they are becoming more and more scarce. Be aware they are extremely smart and will pick pocket/trick and bamboozle you out of food, socks, shoes and hand sanitizer.

The parallel valley to the Hooker is the Tasman. Unlike the Hooker this is a short drive to a very short walk. We visited the Tasman Valley in Feb on our way home from Geraldine. Honestly it isn't that amazing. You park in the car park and take a steep 1km walk up to the rocky outlook. Like the Hooker Valley the lake is murky from the rockfall. The Glacier is very far away and is covered in shale that gives it a dirty look. It would be worth spending the money to do the boat tour that jets up to the glacier edge as you could have a better understanding of the blue ice that makes these glaciers so unique.

The best part of the Tasman Valley for me was the waterfall on the left hand side as you drive in about 500m before the carpark. We parked on the side of the road and scrambled up a rocky river bed to stand under the last tail of the falls that thundered down. I will point out that this was no clear marked track to the top of the waterfall and it was an ankle/knee tester. We also got wet feet however that is more due to the fact that I demanded photos directly under the waterfall. It was pretty amazing to just feel the spray and the force that crashed down next to you. The walk back allows you to view the opposite mountains that are just incredible.

There are many walks in this area, this is just the two major attractions this area is known for. We have a few overnight hikes planned in the area because New Zealand's range of huts is not only well maintained but actually worth ultilising. For the day trip these walks would be perfect, I would do Hooker Valley over and over again it is so breathtaking. It does require the weather to be good though, this is not an area worth traversing in overcast conditions, you can call the park if you want to inquire about visibility before driving all that way.

This is one of my favourite areas of New Zealand, I love feeling more tiny then normal and everything is just so astounding. This is first on my to-do lists for my visitors and I highly recommend this area for anyone travelling between Christchuch and Queenstown.